I've been trying to do more interior shots for clients, and I've also been trying to add material and budgets lists. From what I see so far, it's only limitations are it's lack of customizability for commercial work, and I hear that it's 2d line work is a little difficult when it comesto drawings a detail library. That, and the buggy reports and worksheets for materials lists is what's pushing my current review of Chief Architect. It takes me forever to get a decent kitchen interior done. It's truly amazing what some of those cheap cad programs can do for an interior or a deck.
#Softplan 2016 custom width cabinets software
As far as adjusting the height of the cabinet to match the subfloor, why? Why change your sizes for them? Use the material they are using to lift your cabinets up.I always like walking down the aisle at Staples and checking out the cheap cad software on the shelf. Industry standard has been 34 1/2" for decades. If you meant 35 1/2" cabinet only, you will have a big gap between appliances and countertop. This will create problems with regular appliances unless they are willing to buy expensive European appliances. Then you said you would like to build 35 1/2" - again I assumed to the top of countertop. You said 36" high, I assumed from finished floor to the top of countertop. ADA requirement: maximum 34" to the top of countertop. Regular (kitchen) appliance height builds to fit 34 1/2" opening, except European and some new under-counter refrigerators and dishwashers to fit ADA requirement.
#Softplan 2016 custom width cabinets plus
Toekick height was determined to match dishwashers long ago at 4", or was it the other way around? One old coot told me long ago the depth at 3" plus 1" counter overhang was to prevent belt buckles from scratching the face of the drawers. Here, shimming the ladders up a 1/4" to level might bring the toe kick to 4 1/4", which would be better than 4 3/4". That said, more often than not, common counter thicknesses have evolved to 1 1/4", especially with granite countertops. Two reasons why are: the standard 34 1/2 finished height, and the toe kick which has also become a standard at 4". However, if you read the points mentioned above, you should really be building the base boxes at 30 1/2". I like your method, and the use of materials.
This means more material savings for the shop. This frame is perfectly level and square in respect to my plan layout and cabinet package. It is much easier to knead bread and roll out dough if you can push straight down.įor material calculations I would always use 30" as my basic box size. Now if you are doing a custom kitchen for someone who likes to bake, you might suggest one area that is only 30" high (obviously not in the vicinity of the DW). Otherwise if there were a problem they'd never be able to pull it out. Note that the DW should be on a floor close to the height of the finished floor. That gives a total of 36" from the bottom of the dishwasher to the top of the counter. To decide whether to measure up from subfloor or whatever, ask the question: on what will the dishwasher sit? Measure up 34-1/2" from there - that is the bottom of the counter, which in turn is 1-1/2" high.
We have had requests for all kinds of heights and have built some at 40" for tall people, but it can be a bit embarrassing if the dishwasher doesn't fit! New ADA standards call for 34" at counter level in commercial standards and there are only a few dishwashers available for this height. The ladder system works great and gives you better material yield.īase cabinets have been built 34.5" aff but before countertop height since the early 60's as an industry standard for two reasons: 1) ergonomic working height for a 5.5 - 6' tall human, and 2) dishwashers were set as an industry standard for reason 1. Then again, we pre-cut our sides in advance. That said, a quicker way to deal with it is to use leftover cuts as straight-run shims. We've always built them at 34 1/2", but we've had taller customers have us build them taller and deeper. Your countertop may vary in thickness, changing the height of your cabinets. That is from the top of the countertop to the floor. For example, if they are going to be laying 3/4" hardwood around my cabinets, I will make the bases 35 1/4", and add the extra 3/4" to the bottom, so I still have a 4" high toe kick once it's all said and done.ģ6 inches is the standard height the finished product should come to. If I am setting them on a sub-floor, I add whatever thickness of the floor to my 34 1/2" standard height. If I am setting them on a finished floor, I build them 34 1/2" high. You can build whatever works for you, but seems a bit high to me. Can anyone give me reasons why this would be a good thing or a bad thing? I've been building cabinets 36" high for 15 years, and was thinking of going to 35 1/2" high.
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